BOLC

Somehow the last ten weeks have crawled by.  I’m not sure that is a good thing…  While the time has passed by slowly, much has been crammed in with regard to military knowledge acquisition (not entirely the same thing as learning, but similar in many senses) and military training.  Being a lieutenant at BOLC is better than being a cadet during field training, the facilities are nicer, the pay is better and yet less rewarding in some metaphorical sense.  The sense of camaraderie and enthusiasm experienced in most army units seems to be lacking by and large.  Perhaps that is just the winter fast approaching the Ozarks though…

I was appointed the academics officer for Engineer BOLC Class 12-10.  Basically, my job is to assist my classmates in acquiring the knowledge they need to pass the 7 exams we take over the 17 week course.  The exams we have taken thus far have covered doctrine, defensive operations, offensive operations & demolition, and bridging.  I create notes and run study sessions for each block of instruction.  By far the most exciting block to date was demolitions.  Where else do you have the opportunity to detonate TNT, C4, dynamite, cratering charges, steel cutting charges, and urban breaching charges all on the same day?  While the calculations first gained importance in the demolition block, the bridging block, and the general engineering block (which we are now on) have taken them to an all new level.  Nothing is too complicated, but boy does the army love charts!

Morning PT at 0515 has been a good daily ritual.  My entire daily rhythm has shifted around it, but probably for the better.  PT is a good way to start the day.  I’m really glad that I kept up with running and that I like the hills (interesting that most guys don’t seem to…).  The onset of cold weather really has me looking forward to skiing, but Fort Leonard Wood has yet to get any snow.

While most weekends here have been fairly drab with class work, field training exercises, or other free-time inhibiting activities, I have had a few opportunities to escape post.  The first came in October when a bunch of friends and I rented a cabin at the Lake of the Ozarks.  We enjoyed hanging out and generally relaxing.  The most recent was last weekend, when I went down to Tulsa to visit my granddad, aunt, uncle, and cousins for Thanksgiving.  We ate some delicious food (duck kebabs being the most memorable of which), played billiards, croquet, and went for a couple nice walks.  It was nice to see the family again. 

In addition to Thanksgiving, last week was special in the sense that I celebrated both my promotion to 1^st Lieutenant and 24^th birthday.   What I mostly look forward to however, is going back home for Christmas and spending time outdoors with all my friends again!  

Fort Lost in the Woods: The adventure begins

My first true army assignment is to Fort Leonard Wood, MO to attend Engineer Basic Officer Leadership Course (BOLC).  Due to the glut of lieutenants showing up during the summer (after college graduations), many of the early summer BOLC courses are filled to capacity.  Engineer assignments provided me a BOLC date of 22 September.  As I did not have enough leave time built up to take leave until then, I reported early and became a “snowbird” essentially waiting for my course to begin.  I had heard different things from my classmates about snowbirding.  Some said it should be avoided at all costs, others said it was not so bad.  Really it all depended on what tasks you were assigned. 

The first few days after reporting in were filled with in-processing paperwork and shuffling around post.  Following that, I was assigned to an “OPFOR” (Opposition Forces) detail, acting as both an insurgent setting off IEDs and as a civilian on the battlefield in different training scenarios.  OPFOR hours were less then optimal, often bridging both day and night hours, so I felt fortunate when the following week (starting August 23^rd), a dozen other snowbirds and myself were assigned to take a Military Search class at the Counter Explosives Hazards Center.  During the two week class (plus a week of search advisor training), we learned about topics ranging from the precursor chemicals used to make homemade explosives, to the different types of military munitions, to the use of search dogs, and methodical searching procedures.  I was glad to have a consistent schedule and to be learning something useful.

Over the weekends my new snowbird friends and I made trips to the surrounding areas.  Fort Leonard Wood (not unlike many other army bases) is notorious for its location far from “exciting things to do,” hence the nickname “Fort Lost in the Woods.”  Naturally, the definition of exciting is subjective.  I quite enjoy the surrounding woods and streams.  Unfortunately, there are no major mountains or whitewater rivers nearby, but there are hunting and fishing opportunities, which I look forward to experiencing.  I have also purchased a mountain bike and checked out some of the local trails.  Over Labor Day Weekend (4-6 September), my roommate Beau and I decided to head north and bike a portion of the Katy Trail built atop a former railway bed.  We biked from Jefferson City (Missouri’s Capital) to Booneville and beyond camping along the way.  At one point, five miles out from the town of Easley, the pedal fell off my bike—it was a cheap Chinese made bike—throwing a monkey wrench in my plans.  I had to jog the five miles back to town and then try to fix it myself.  The next day, the homemade repair rapidly disintegrated and I knew I had to take it to a bike shop.  I found the nearest bike shop with my GPS and was surprised to find an 80 year old man working the repairs.  He turned out to be a great guy and a fantastic bike tech, getting me back on the road in no time.  Beau and I enjoyed our final afternoon at a winery restaurant atop a perch overlooking the Missouri River and the Katy Trail.  It was a great way to end the trip.

Other weekends during BOLC have been spent visiting the Lake of the Ozarks (a regional recreation area with numerous water based activities) and Springfield (where both a major university and the Bass Pro headquarters are located).  Finally, this past weekend, I made the drive down to Tulsa, Oklahoma to visit my grandfather and extended family.  Granddad really enjoyed showing me around the new office/residential complex he had built and put on the market (he is a former Army Engineer and after retirement worked in the construction industry).  We also played a few games of pool and went to the range to shoot the rifle he had given me as a graduation present intermixed with visit from my aunt and cousins.  It was good to see the family again.

Today, I had the privilege of presenting at the Pulaski County Rotary Club meeting, located just off post.  I talked about my experiences as a Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar and shared many stories from my year in New Zealand.  I think they really enjoyed it and the atmosphere was quite nice.  Perhaps I’ll have the opportunity to make good on their offer and come back for a few more meetings during my time at Ft. LW.

The last week of snowbirding has been pretty good.  We now do 5 am physical training (PT) every morning and report in at 8 for assignments.  I’ve worked a few reloading, inventory, and minor construction projects in the meanwhile, but that is all about to come to an end.  Tomorrow, my BOLC class begins.  I’m glad to put this “snowbirding” business behind me and get to work—it means one step closer to getting to my final duty assignment: Germany! 

Multi-National Training: Turkey

Way back in March my former academic advisor at West Point, LTC Gagnon—who happens to be a chair on the international programs committee—notified me of an upcoming trip to Turkey that lacked on Officer-in-Charge (OIC).  The Turks had requested that an officer in the rank of Captain or below accompany the cadets at the OIC.  West Point had some difficulty fulfilling this request due to the small number of Captains and Lieutenants on staff.  Realizing my opportunity, I quickly sent the Cadet Advanced Training officer and e-mail stating my interest in the OIC position and availability during the two week period (29 July-9 August).  Though it took a number of months and some wrangling at the academy, I was selected for the assignment and received my orders in June.  I was to lead a group of five West Point cadets to Turkey, where they would participate in the “International Cadet Military Training, Fire, and Exercise Week” held at the Turkish Military Academy’s summer training area outside Izmir.

The initial planning phases went well as I established communication with the Turkish Academy and Embassy.  Booking the group flights was much easier than I anticipated and flight we arranged (direct JFK to Istanbul) was fantastic.  Coordinating with the cadets proved more difficult as many of them were dispersed at training areas around the US and abroad.  The day prior to departure, I learned that one of my cadets did not have a passport, which I imagined would be a no-go for his travel eligibility.  However, by leveraging our military connections and the fact that this trip was official government/military travel, we circumvented the issue by having NATO travel orders issued.  In New York, JFK Airport was a mess.  Travelers crammed the check-in counters and linking up with the five cadets proved to be a challenge in itself.  We made it onto the jumbo jet with no a minute to spare, but most importantly we made it.  Three movies and a nap later, we were touching down in Istanbul.  The connection in Ataturk International Airport by comparison was placid.  On the small commuter jet from Istanbul to Ankara, we watched crowded motorways transform into barren Anatolian Plateau pass beneath us.  The golden domed mosques we spotted before landing were incredible.

Upon arrival in Ankara, we were met by a Major from the English faculty at the Turkish Military Academy (Kara Harp Okulu).  We were then taken back to the Academy and given a short tour around.  We ate at the cadet mess hall and had the first of many fine Turkish military meals, the heart of which seemed to be bread, potatoes, and vegetables.  A sour yogurt-like drink,  Ayran, which seemed to be a national specialty, was introduced to us, catching on with a few.  Others chose to refrain.

The following day, July 31^st, we got up early and began the first, of what would prove to be many, long bus rides.  Leaving Ankara, we drove west to the coastal city of Izmir and just beyond to the summer training facility.  The cadets stayed in the tent city comprising of three man tents arrayed by company.  The officers (myself included) were treated with quite comfortable hotel rooms at the Officers Club in Izmir (45 minutes away from camp).  I shared a room with a Hungarian Captain, who turned out to be a very nice fellow.  Each morning we ordered a Turkish Coffee (small, but intense and delicious) before heading on the bus out to the training area.

The first day at the training area was spent touring the grounds, going for a swim in the Aegean, and competing in 10 km battle run and obstacle course (boots and uniform, carrying weapons, with an obstacle course at the end).  The most difficult component was the 100 (38C) degree heat and ~90% humidity.  These factors combined to make one hell of an event.  I decided to run with my cadets (I was only two officers who chose to do so).  Over the years, I’ve done a fair deal of training in the summer heat, but never before had I been so close to heat-stoke as after finishing the course in just over an hour.  I recall opening my blouse and feeling the heat rush out (similar to opening an oven door).

The following day we had a full schedule with a homeland security demonstration, a high-crawl course (with live rounds shot overhead to boot), and capsized boat drills (ie how to flip and recover a capsized boat).  On August 4^th, we were treated to something very special, a military helicopter tour which picked us up from the LZ on the training area, circled a nearby island in the Aegean and brought us back.  It was a fantastic trip and incredibly beautiful to see the water from above.  That afternoon all the cadets were bused into Izmir and they had the opportunity to go around the city to check out the cultural sites, take pictures, and go shopping.  Each delegation had at least one Turkish host cadet, which was great because they had some local knowledge and helped explain common things to us in the Turkish cultural context.  We had “Iskandar Doner” (Alexander the Great Kebab), fresh squeezed orange juice, and Turkish delights.  Each of us also picked up a number of souvenirs (including Turkish delights to bring home).  That evening, back at the officers club, we had a large, delicious, traditional dinner accompanied by Raki (the national alcoholic beverage made of Anis—it tastes like licorice).  I also tasted sheep’s intestine soup for the first time in my life and it was surprisingly good and hearty.

On the 5^th of August, the cadets conducted mountaineering training and select cadets had the opportunity to fire the various Turkish light weapons systems (pistol, machine pistol, and rifle), many of which were of German design (Heckler and Koch) and Turkish manufacture.  The following day, we explored the environs of Izmir to include Kusadasi (a port town), Ephesus (ancient ruins), and House of the Virgin Mary (a shrine).  Personally, I found Ephesus to be the most spectacular.  In its heyday during the 1^st  Century B.C., it was second largest city in existence (after Rome) and one of the eight wonders of the world.  Yet, due to alluvial sediment deposits, the coast began to recede.  The people gradually moved away, especially after the city was sacked numerous times.  Today Ephesus, largely in ruins, but preserved as a UNESCO world heritage site, lies kilometers from the coast.  To walk the marble streets and sit in the amphitheater (the largest in the Ancient world) truly gives one a sense of how grand this city once was.  Chillingly, in my mind, more than anything else, Ephesus stands as a testament to the power of geography and changing earth systems.  After returning to the camp we participated in a non-alcoholic coctail party and gift exchange.  I scored a sweet Afghan hat and a little yurt (I’ll hang it on my Christmas tree).  This was a great chance to talk to the cadets and officers from all the different delegations and break some cultural barriers.

The following day, 7 August, we began our last major bus trip from Izmir to Istanbul.  I read for most of the trip, though I think most of the cadets were having a sleeping competition.  After ten hours on the road and an hour long ferry ride we spotted the famous bridge spanning the Bosporus against the setting sun.  We knew we had finally arrived in Istanbul.  We stayed at the military high school on the Asian side of the city and in the morning took the bus over to Topkapi Palace, the residence of the Ottoman Sultans.  The tile work, gold inlay, and monumental architecture were only surpassed by the collection of artifacts the palace contained.  These included the robes of Mehmet the Conqueror, who defeated the armies of the Eastern Roman Empire to secure the city then known as Constantinople in 1453.  Also among the collections were magnificent jewels (enormous diamonds and emeralds), ornate gold jewelry, and the sword of the prophet Muhammad.  After being mesmerized in Topkapi, we headed over to Hagia Sophia, the most famous church/mosque in the world.  Well over a thousand years old, the structure, artwork and architecture were all larger than life.  In the dusty halls, with light filtering in through the stained glass above, you could sense the history and importance of hallowed site.  Directly adjacent to Hagia Sophia is the impressively large Blue (Sultan Ahmed) Mosque, which we paid a visit to as well.  It is the only mosque in Turkey with six minarets.  Following the pair of holy sites, we decided to go underground and visit the cistern, were we discovered two disembodied medusa heads adorning pillars—quite a change from the angels and glowing tiles seen on the structures above!

We spent our last evening in Turkey hanging out by the Bosporus, enjoying some good food, and swapping reflections over a bottle of Raki.  It had been a grand trip exposing us to much more than just Turkish culture, but also Hungarian, Afghan, Georgian, Egyptian, and the half dozen other participating countries.  In the span of a few short days, I believe my cadets eyes had been opened to a huge, new part of the world.  I know mine had.

An Alaskan Summer

After returning from my year as a Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar in New Zealand, I was lucky enough to spend 24 days worth of leave at home in Alaska.  My first adventure began the day after I arrived home.  Roman Dial and I drove up to Hatchers Pass to packraft the Upper Little Susitna River (Class IV-).  The run was great, weaving though technical boulder gardens with a moderate flow.  Roman and I’s run was a good warm up for a later run on 17^th of July at a higher (and thus pushier) volume.  Hatcher’s Pass is a truly special part of Alaska.  I have been there to camp, hike, and ski, but this was my first time out rafting and it was not a disappointment.

On the evening of the 7^th of July, dad and I drove down to Soldotna to meet up with my granddad and cousin and go fishing.  We drifted the Kasilof River, but over the past five years the Chinook salmon runs have been terrible.  The only one from our party (perhaps appropriately so) to catch a “king” was my cousin, Thomas, from Oklahoma who had never caught a salmon before.  What a rush.  The following day we all flew across Cook Inlet to fish Sockeye in the waters of Big River Lake.  He we did substantially better catching seven sockeye in the span of a few hours.  On the trip back, we passed over Double Peak and Double Glacier and much of the wildlife sanctuary surrounding it.  The density of brown bears was amazing.  We must have spotted two dozen or more over an expanse of 20 miles or so.  Very impressive.  The finished off the day with a leisurely float down the Kenai River and some bald eagle spotting.

One of the trips I had been meaning to tackle all summer was packrafting the Upper Eagle River (starting at the terminal lake fed from Eagle Glacier).  Jan’s friend Missy was up to the challenge, so on July 11^th we elected to push on over Crow Pass and take on the 26 mountain and rivers miles in a single day.  Even leaving at 8 AM, it turned out to be a big day (big as in tiring that is).  Crow Pass still had some snow at its upper reaches, though not as much as the previous two times I have climbed it.  More importantly, the Eagle River had a good flow going though, which was key so we would not get hung up on the sand (silt?) bars.  On the way down, I managed to pick up a blade from a cracked paddle of some previous packrafters, who apparently were in for a much more challenging trip than us.  Our dry suits were really what saved the day though.  Eagle River flows rather slowly (for my standards) in its upper stretches and the 10 or so miles down the river took us approximately 4 hours.  During this entire time we were getting splashed and sitting centimeters away from melted glacier water.  Dry suits are truly amazing!

Over the following week, I did a number of things in and around town.  My mom enjoys entertaining and our family was happy to have two sets of friends (the Michol’s and the Mitchell’s) over for dinner.  I also was lucky enough to attend to Anchorage Philatelic Society meetings when I was home and give a presentation about my time in New Zealand to the local Rotary club.  Mom and I spent half a day framing a dozen or so pieces of artwork I had collected over the years, which I was very grateful to get done.

I spent the week of the 19^th-23^rd of July in Denali National Park visiting my sister, Jan.  I try to make this annually as a sort of pilgrimage both to see my sister and experience the magnificence of Denali.  On the bus trip in along I saw moose, caribou, wolves, dall sheep, ptarmigan, and grizzlies among the numerous inhabitants of the park.  It was good to catch up with Jan (I usually only get to see her twice a year, which is too bad) and I was glad to find that she was still enjoying her job as a naturalist guide and administrator at Camp Denali (Jan is in her 7^th year now).  As Jan had to work on the 20^th, I did a solo trip down Moose Creek, which was quite fun.  I also made sure Jan tested out the waters and the packraft before we launched on a big trip.  The following day we headed out into the park.  Traveling over the McKinley River and Muldrow Glacier, on the first day we made it to the headwaters of Pirate Creek.  We camped out there and the clouds swirled in around us.  The following morning we inflated our packrafts to max capacity and put in on the steep creek for what turned out to be one bumpy ride.  Ducking under the willows proved to be a critical skill as did staying on the seat (Jan learned this the hard way).  We hit the confluence with the Clearwater River and the scenery changed completely.  A small creek morphed into a large river with abundant waterfowl and expansive views.  We followed the Clearwater down to where it is crossed by a small foot and pony trail.  This trail was blazed by climbers on their way to summit Denali before the Kahiltna Glacier Route was popularized.  We followed this trail over Turtle Hill were we made our second camp and waited for the river levels to subside overnight.  The following morning we got up at 5AM to catch the water level on the McKinley River at what we hoped would be its lowest flow of the day.  Even at this hour we were still in up to our waists.  I helped buoy Jan over the most challenging part of the river and we pushed on to Wonder Lake where we were able to catch a bus back to Camp Denali.  Later that day I drove back all the way from Kantishna to Eagle River.

The last three days I had in Alaska I spent packrafting and having my household goods picked up.  I went packrafting with Matt Johnson down the Upper Willow Creek (Class III+) on the first day.  The Upper Willow has one tough entry rapid and a bunch of other fun, splashy rapids.  The following day we took on South Fork of Eagle River (Class III+) and Campground Rapids (Class III), both of which were at extremely high flows due to the heavy rains South-central Alaska had been receiving.  South Fork was a different experience as it flows though residents’ back yards and is a very small stream only paddleable at higher flows.  Though it is small, it packs a punch due to its steep grade, little maneuver room, sweepers, and blind turns.  Quite a fun run, especially for being right in the backyard.  The day before leaving I made the last of my packraft modifications including reinstalling my thigh straps, doubling the Velcro all around, and adding a snap to the top of the spray skirt.  These mods should help to make my packraft more bombproof for whitewater runs in the future.  (Thanks to my parents for helping me out in the process and for your patience).

Though I was a bit sad to leave Alaska, I was very much looking forward to the next part of my summer plans: Turkey!

In Progress

Stay turned for upcoming posts on Alaska and Turkey!